Paris Couture Week Fall 2022 – WWD – Pen 18

As the haute couture season has evolved into a cultural phenomenon, so has the street style of fashionistas outside of runway shows, which is no longer exclusive enough to attract clients and also celebrities, influencers and fashion fanatics. While influencers often don the full form to promote their brand relationships, other creative types and fashion-lovers choose to pursue their own personal styles, resulting in myriad interesting trends.

Running from July 3 to 7 at Paris Couture Week, some of the biggest street-style trends include trompe l’oeil details, skin-baring styles, the denim renaissance, gender-fluid silhouettes, head-to-toe statement accessories, and a slew of extravagances. Balancing in the palette between summery brights and minimalist, “Balenciaga” blacks.

For example, model Jourdan Dunn emerged from the Jean Paul Gaultier Couture show in an architectural, sheer number, In which featured guest designer Olivier Rousteing’s look, leading the way on the translucent and skin-baring trend. Elsewhere, Schiaparelli jewelry, pins and headwear were some of the best examples of statement accessories taking the streets of Paris, proving there’s more this summer. Other large accessories included oversized hats, cross-body bags and a range of sunglasses, often seen as the finishing touches to the all-black look.

The off-duty model wore a Canadian tuxedo, oversized blazer, leather pants and the ever-present white ribbed tank top; When it comes to genderless fashion, lace gloves, flashy accessories, bustiers and the occasional sailor hat added a touch of whimsy. Elsewhere, the couture tradition stayed strong with Chanel tweeds, Dior plaids, Gaultier coveted Tromp L’Oil bodysuits, and more.

Originally published at Pen 18

Kanye West Files Trademark for ‘YZYSPLY’ Clothing, Retail Stores – WWD – Pen 18

Is Yeezy Season Coming Again?

Ye’s company Mascot Holdings filed trademark applications with the United States Patent and Trademark Office on June 29, calling for the store as well as “on-line ordering services and on-line retail store services” and “YZYSPLY” for several apparel categories. “had to be used. Innerwear and outerwear, including sleepwear, swimwear, accessories and sportswear.

YZYSPLY is an acronym for Yeezy Supply Website, where music artists and creatives partner with Adidas to introduce new items from their Yeezy collections. The German sportswear giant could not be reached for comment.

The new filing appears to point to the latest fashion endeavor for Ye, formerly known as Kanye West. Her current fashion deal with the Gap, which includes a collaboration with Balenciaga, and her prior deal with Adidas on Yeezy sneakers and clothing, put the creative’s net worth at over $1 billion.

The deal between Yeh and Gap first came to the fore in 2020 with the products launching in 2021. First up was a blue recycled nylon puffer jacket in fall 2021 and a cotton, double layer hoodie that same year that drove the most sales in one. A day for the gap. You teased the offering by wearing the styles at first, but notably wearing a red version of the puffer jacket to his concerts promoting his 2021 album “Donda.”

Then earlier this year, Ye revealed a collaboration with Balenciaga on Yeezy Gap. The partnership has spawned two limited releases so far.

A Gap spokesperson revealed on Monday that Chief Executive Officer Sonia Singhal is stepping down, leaving no comment.

Prior to the Gap partnership, Ye brought her fashion vision to life in collaboration with Adidas. After countless interviews with luxury fashion and sportswear companies explaining their frustrations, Adidas stepped in as a partner for Ye’s vision. First, they debuted a fashion collection and footwear at New York Fashion Week in 2015, which would later launch in stores, leading to long lines at stores before launch, and in 2016 saw the third Yeezy season collection and Yee’s seventh studio album. A huge show introducing “PablokaJeevan.”

These and Adidas’ success is best represented by the Yeezy Boost sneaker line which first debuted in 2015 with the Yeezy Boost 750 and 350, the latter being updated to a new silhouette. The line would later add new sneakers, boots and new slides, all of which contributed to Yee’s multi-billion-dollar net worth.

Originally published at Pen 18

Monty Norman, Composer Of The James Bond Theme, Dies at 94 – Pen 18

London: Monty Normana British musician who wrote the theme tune for james bond movies, has died. He was 94 years old. A statement posted on Norman’s official website on Monday said: “It is with sadness that it is shared with sadness that Monty Norman passed away on July 11, 2022 following a short illness.” born Monty Noserovich Norman got his first guitar at the age of 16, to Jewish parents in London’s East End in 1928. He performed in big bands and a variety of double acts with comedian Benny Hill before writing songs for early British rockers. Cliff Richard And tommy steel and composing for stage music in which “make me an offer,expresso bongo,hurried up” And “poppy,Also read – Boris Johnson’s successor wants to stand out in overcrowded Britain’s turf

Norman was hired by the producer Albert “Cubi” Broccoli to create a theme for the first James Bond film,”Dr. no” released in 1962. He moved a piece he wrote for a proposed musical adaptation of VS Naipaul’s “A House for Mr. Biswas” from sitar to electric guitar. The result – twingy, propulsive, menacing – has been used in all 25 Bond thrillers. Also Read – Ajay Devgn-Kajol’s daughter Nyasa chills with her friends in Spain – see pics

The producers hired composer John Barry to rearrange the theme, and Barry was widely believed to have written it – much to Norman’s concern. Barry, who died in 2011, composed scores for nearly a dozen Bond films, including “gold Finger” And “you only Live Twice, Also read- Nyasa Devgan had a fierce party with Arjun Rampal’s daughter Mahika and other friends in London, pictures went viral

Norman went to court to claim his authorship, suing the Sunday Times newspaper for defamation over a 1997 article that said the subject matter was composed by Barry. He won in 2001 and was awarded £30,000 in damages.

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Originally published at Pen 18

‘Shame on You’ Capsule Collection Features Surveillance Images – WWD – Pen 18

Important Notice: In what is one of the more unexpected messages through a collaboration, photographer and artist Alessandro “Zuek” Simonetti has joined forces with IUTR to launch a collab titled “Shame on You.”

The series of black-and-white images displayed on the hoodie and other designs were taken by CCTV cameras at the Chinatown Daily, where the owners posted publicly to try to deter petty crime.

As a photographer, he said he’s always been interested in alternative ways of collecting images, including those that don’t come straight from his own camera. During his daily stop at the New York City Daily, he noticed how surveillance cameras posted photocopied printouts of photographs, which he perceived to be similar to contemporary “Wanted” signs. They first caught their attention in 2007 – years before the start of the cancellation culture and before people started using their smartphones to document what they saw as indiscretions.

In addition to having a distinct aesthetic “the part that is attractive”, Simonetti said, the images convey “the idea of ​​judging on our own”. “I originally stole it from the refrigerator of a deli in Chinatown. I went in and took out the posters. I’ve collected eight or nine so far,” he added, adding there is a recording of him taking them himself. In 2007, Milan His work was shown at the 2009 exhibition of Via Farini.

The “Shame on You” collection includes a reversible bomber jacket, a hoodie, a long-sleeved T-shirt, a T-shirt, and printed carpenter pants. It is being sold online and in select stores, including the IUTR outpost in Milan. Photographer Blake Kunin shot the look book in the Lower East Side and Brooklyn. Retail prices range from $85 to $350.

After 16 years living in New York City, the artist is now dividing his time between Italy and New York. He knew nothing about a recent news report from a bodega worker, Jose Alba, who has been accused of fatally stabbing a man who attacked him over a $3 dispute with his girlfriend. With no knowledge of that incident, Simonetti insisted that the capsule collection had been created six months earlier. An IUTER spokesperson later reiterated that point via email.

Simonetti said, “However, according to the release anticipated, I was not aware of it at all. … If anything, it is” [project] for me [about] Uncovering something that’s in New York’s DNA. Of course, there is no hidden negative connotation behind it. New York is such a crazy city. it hurts to hear [news],

He is working on another New York-focused venture, a book featuring several images of people playing basketball on the city’s West Fourth Street court, known as “The Cage”. Is. For four consecutive summers before the pandemic hit, he chronicled some of the street basketball he played there and is editing photos for an upcoming coffee table book that “will tell the story of a specific corner that still really York is real and alive, and in a way resists change, even though everything around it is changing,” he said.

“It will be a basketball book, but it will really be a book about New York City and a specific site, including everything that happens around that court.”

Originally published at Pen 18

Ralph Rucci Discusses the Highs and Lows of Couture – WWD – Pen 18

Ralph Rucci didn’t go to Paris for haute couture this season, but he did debut his fall collection.

Despite not hosting a show or presentation there, Ruchi timed the unveiling to get within the spirit of the season. The New York-based designer is expected to return to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in January.

Noting how the federation needed to make at least 25 designs to participate, Ruchi said he chose because he couldn’t afford to meet that quota and do a show in Paris. As was the case last season, Rookie worked with an illustrator to develop the watercolors of her designs. “People loved it. For customers, it becomes another element of seduction,” Ruchi said, adding that last season’s orders were based primarily on sketches as they were designed versus requests for minor changes.

Referring to the most recent couture show, he said, “We’re back to getting paid to play. Those front rows were full of personalities who were being paid [to attend], You won’t see customers in the front lines… People – and homes – soliciting promotions are part of the pay-for-play story. If you’re showing up with your press agent and being followed by photographers, you’re not paying for clothing,” Ruchi said, adding that many couture customers prefer not to show up so that people don’t know. how much do they cost.

Rookie said, “I like to give things away but I never give things away for publicity — never.”

The fall collection features a sleeveless leather jewel-neck dress embroidered in two patterns, with an over structure over the skirt. An amorphous Duchess satin “cream puff”-type tunic paired with a narrow flared evening skirt with hand-sewn grosgrain ribbon insets over silk organza is another favorite design this season, Rookie said.

Noting how a couture suit without any embroidery from a European home can start at $125,000 in some cases, Rookie said that her prices—which start at $25,000 and more—and are based on hand techniques, embroidery, and fur. Augmentation at the base – are “more appropriate” though the same process as selecting a design, making a toilet, fitting, making a roast garment before the final garment is made. With some designer ready-to-wear suits retailing for as much as $35,000 in specialty stores, “luxury ready-to-wear has become so expensive that haute couture has more meaning to the argument, not just hand-made.” Perfection up to the level of going fabric which is striking but the price structure is understood,” he said.

Once again Rookie worked with fashion illustrator Bill Donovan to create a look book. The photography and production work was handled by 26Five. Donovan’s work will be the focus of an exhibition entitled “The Art of Elegance” from September 13 to 18 at the Gray MCA in London before moving on to Bath from 20 September to 29 October.

Rucci works with Dean Harris for any designs that are related to jewelry such as a dress with a South Seas baroque pearl button on the back. The designer plans to do more paintings on his own to silkscreen some of those designs on clothing for the next season.

After 41 years in fashion and nearing her 65th birthday, Rookie said, “I feel so lucky to be able to do it with the same level of enthusiasm. I still love my meter.”

While acknowledging the ongoing social changes in the world, the war in Ukraine, the lack of rights for women and gay people, and other “apocalyptic problems”, she said, “we don’t have enough resources to defend ourselves or be psychologically prepared.” There’s no way to do it. Before Elsa Peretti died, she said, ‘The only way to deal with this is through beauty and art.'”

In the process of redesigning her art-filled apartment into a three-room couture salon, Rookie said visiting clients would help her experience the textile and its art process. “At one point in my life, I had a 16,000-square-foot office and salon and 67 employees. I don’t anymore, but I’m happier than ever to do what I want, the way I want to. ,

Despite the many headaches affecting designers due to tie-ups, rising fabric prices, and other issues, Rookie insists that couture customers always want sophisticated designs and one that can take the heat. Before this week’s heat wave in New York City, Rookie ordered two inflatable pools from Amazon and installed them on her roof. A small one for his bulldog “Jimmy”, named after Rookie’s mentor James Galanos, and a big one for himself. “On Saturdays I’ll go to the pool and lie there—a fancy couturier in a kid’s blow-up pool,” he said with a laugh.

Originally published at Pen 18

india: Can India carry T20 form to ODIs?

India will not go ahead with the first ball when the three-match series against England begins here on Tuesday but batsmen are expected to adopt their fearless approach in ODIs from the shortest format.

India’s high-risk game helped them win the series against England and given that ODIs have become an extension of the shortest format,

Rohit Sharma sees no reason why his team should back down from that approach.

England redefined the way ODI cricket is played and their dominance ended with the World Cup trophy in 2019. It would not be an exaggeration to say that India’s new approach to shorter formats is inspired by the English template.

The three games will be the only 50-over matches that India will offer ahead of the T20 World Cup but Rohit said they still hold a lot of importance.

“All matches are important to us. We can’t play thinking that ODIs are not a priority, but we have to keep in mind the workload of each player. We will make changes but our ultimate goal is to win matches. We will not give up that thought process. Behind,” Rohit said after the third T20I in Nottingham on Sunday.

“For us, the aim is to understand white-ball cricket, how to play, newbies are playing it. 50 overs is an extension of T20. Maybe you take less risk in ODIs than T20 cricket but you should Gotta take it.” ,

The team will have an optional training session at The Oval with a quick turnaround time between the T20 and ODI series.

For a man like Shikhar Dhawan, who plays only one format and will captain the side in the West Indies, the England attack will have to be challenged from the start.

However, the southpaw has found ways to remain consistent, be it playing an ODI for India or the IPL.

more than a billion people were waiting

Kohli will get into form in T20 but it did not happen.

Looking at the team’s new approach, he had to work hard with the first ball but the ODI series will give him a lot of time to deliver his best. He showed a glimpse of his rare talent on Sunday and will look to score tons of runs in three matches.

India’s conscious effort to play aggressively will not always go well but the team management is ready to live with that.

Rohit also spoke about the biggest takeaways from the T20 series win.

He said, “The attitude of every person who has played in this series has been the biggest conclusion. How have they enjoyed the moment in between, taking this extra risk, taking the opportunity.

“The mindset is something we’re trying to change and I think that’s the biggest lesson from all the players. They’re willing to do that, they’re willing to take that risk. And when I go and I talk to a few individuals or players and I hear the same kind of feedback from them, which is the biggest achievement.

“Obviously when doing this, the results will move around. We are looking at the big picture and to achieve this we will make some mistakes,” he said.

This will be Buttler’s first ODI series after taking over as white-ball captain from Eoin Morgan. After the disappointment of T20, the hosts will be desperate for a strong comeback.

Buttler himself will try to score big after failing in T20.

England will be strengthened by the return of star players Ben Stokes, Joe Root and Jonny Bairstow.

Test victory for the hosts

While Root does not play T20s, Stokes and Bairstow have been rested after a historic win in the rescheduled fifth Test.

Squad: Jos Buttler (Captain), Moeen Ali, Jonathan Bairstow, Harry Brooke, Bryden Cars, Sam Curran, Liam Livingstone, Craig Overton, Matthew Parkinson, Joe Root, Jason Roy, Phil Salt, Ben Stokes, Reece Topley, David Willey.

India squad for 3rd ODI: Rohit Sharma (capt), Shikhar Dhawan, Ishan Kishan, Virat Kohli, Suryakumar Yadav, Shreyas Iyer, Rishabh Pant (wk), Hardik Pandya, Ravindra Jadeja, Shardul Thakur, Yuzvendra Chahal, Axar Patel, J Bumrah, Famous Krishna, Mohammed Shami, Mohammed Siraj, Arshdeep Singh.

The match will start at 5.30 pm Indian time.

Originally published at Pen 18

Carrie Johnson’s Dreams of Becoming the First Wife of Sustainability – WWD – Pen 18

london – Carrie Johnson may be packing, but she’s taking the cause of stability with her.

British Prime Minister Boris Johnson promised £80 million in green funding for the fashion industry in June before announcing his resignation from 10 Downing Street earlier this week.

For Johnson, the effect of sustainability traces back to his wife, Carrie, the first wife of all things green.

The political and climate activist married Johnson in a rented dress from Greek luxury designer Christos Costarelos in May 2021 through the leading fashion rental platform My Wardrobe HQ.

A week after their intimate lockdown wedding, Carey wanted to be remembered when she finished number 10 at the 47th G7 Summit special by attending a fare piece.

She made her debut in a bright pink Roksanda dress, which was later followed by a floral print number from The Vampire’s Wife from Hur Collective. A turmeric-coloured button-down Alice early dress from My Wardrobe HQ was also a part of Carrie’s G7 wardrobe.

Carey has cleverly attached herself to a cause that is central to the conversation that takes place across all different sectors and industries – one that allows her to be cherry-played on a court that best suits her values ​​in that moment. Is.

Previous first wives have taken on the same role that is expected of the British royal family – to try and be one with the people.

When David Cameron became prime minister in 2010, his wife Samantha stepped down as Smythson’s creative director to focus on life inside No.

In an interview with The Sunday Morning Herald, she said: “There was definitely a level of paranoia about that sort of thing in Downing Street. [speaking publicly]And this was not my place to be news.”

Once Cameron left Downing Street, Samantha launched her own label for working women, Safin, in 2017.

Carey got swept up in a hurry for the green credentials. In her first public speech at Birdfair in 2019, she said: “I’m far from perfect, but I try to remember to carry a canvas bag to the supermarket, carrying my reusable bottle instead of buying a plastic one.” Am, and tonight I’m wearing a permanent outfit.”

In her short stint as first wife, Carey has been more consistent in pursuing her enduring goals.

However, for her last storm at the 48th G7 summit, she went for a white two-piece suit from The Deck that usually costs around £2,500.

Originally published at Pen 18