Ana de Armas Stuns in Louis Vuitton Suit for ‘The Gray Man’ in Berlin – WWD – Pen 18

Ana de Armas is continuing her streak of fashion-forward moments for her latest film, “The Gray Man.”

On Monday, the actress wore a custom navy three-piece suit and silver strappy sandals by Louis Vuitton to attend the premiere of her Netflix film at the Zoo Palast in Berlin. She wore her hair in a ponytail that fringed her face and her eye makeup was simple with a bold, red lip.

She is usually styled by Samantha McMillan, who also works with Elle Fanning, Brie Larson, and Kate Bosworth.

Ana de Armas in Louis Vuitton.

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The actress frequently works with the French luxury fashion house, attending its shows and wearing Louis Vuitton creations at other high-end events such as the premiere of the latest James Bond film “No Time to Die” in October.

During the film’s Los Angeles premiere last week, d’Armas also wore a custom look by Louis Vuitton, a fully embroidered rose gold mini-palette straight-cut gown with a gladiator layered skirt.

Her cast members from the film also joined her on the red carpet, including Ryan Gosling, Chris Evans and reggae-Jean Page. The film’s directors, Joe and Anthony Russo, known professionally as the Russo Brothers, were also in attendance.

Joe Russo, Ana de Armas, Ryan Gosling, Chris Evans, Reggae-Jean Page and Anthony Russo.

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The action-thriller film follows a CIA agent, played by Gosling, who is hunted around the world by a sociopathic evil operative, played by Evans, after he uncovers harmful secrets about the agency.

The film is set for a limited theatrical release on July 15, but will be available to stream on Netflix from July 22. According to Deadline, it is the most expensive film ever made by Netflix with a budget of $200 million.

Photos: Ana de Armas, Ryan Gosling, Chris Evans at ‘The Gray Man’ premiere in Berlin

Originally published at Pen 18

Norma Kamali Moves NYC Office Downtown – WWD – Pen 18

After 40 years, Norma Kamali has moved out of her headquarters at 11 West 56th Street in New York to new downtown offices at 609 Greenwich Street.

Kamali told WWD that the new 16,000-square-foot space will be used for installations, exhibitions and “all kinds of things interactive and immersive.” She said it would also serve as the brand’s headquarters, and where the company would do photo shoots and podcasts. It will not function as a retail space.

“We’re still unpacking and setting up and we don’t need to be in the city center anymore,” Kamali said. “I’m thrilled to be in the neighborhood area, with a friendly and very community feel. Google and Disney are opening nearby, so it’s and will remain an energetic part of town.”

Kamali bought the building at 11 West 56th Street in 1982, which is currently in the market. The place had three floors and won several awards for architecture and interiors.

“Yes, 11 West is on the sale block and on time for another company to build a vision for their brand,” Kamali said.

Last May, Kamali, a native New Yorker who built her company more than 50 years old in the city, was awarded the City of Design Award from the Museum of the City of New York.

The designer, who is also the author of the book “I’m Invincible,” is known for items like sleeping bag coats, her iconic swimwear, and her sweat collections, and lately, she’s experienced very strong sales of her own. A one-shoulder dress with cropped sides and an asymmetrical hem called Diana, worn by Carrie Bradshaw in “And Just Like That.”

Originally published at Pen 18

New Book Explores Pierre Cardin’s Early Years, Links With Japan – WWD – Pen 18

Centenary Man: With the 100th anniversary of Pierre Cardin’s birth coinciding with the birth, a new book sheds light on the late couturier’s early years, leading up to the launch of his revolutionary Space Age collection Cosmocorps in 1964.

Jean-Pascal Hesse, the long-time lead author of Designer’s Communications, has unearthed a trove of rare documents and photographs for a volume titled “Pierre Cardin: Mode Myth Moderne” or “Pierre Cardin: Fashion, Myth, Modernity”. It is scheduled to be published in French by Flammarion on 21 September.

Cover of “Pierre Cardin: Mode Myth Moderne”.

Courtesy of Flammarion

The book has a foreword by Jean-Paul Gaultier, who famously began her career in Cardin’s studio, and the cover photograph – model Celia Hammond in a cloud-like pink hat and reflective pink coat in the mirror – shows it This is a 1962 image by British photographer Norman Parkinson.

Inside are several images of Roland de Vasal, who documented Cardin’s early years in haute couture, including the invention of the bubble dress, which led to the launch of his ready-to-wear line in 1963.

Pierre Pellegri, another close Cardin colleague who heads the Maxim restaurant, sourced the images by Japanese photographer Yoshi Takata, who met Cardin in 1954 and invited him to teach a cutting class at the Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo in 1957. done, marking the first phase of a long run. Artistic and commercial collaboration between Cardin and Takata.

It was thanks to Takata that Cardin was introduced to his collection Hiroko Matsumoto, the first Japanese model of French couture.

Hiroko Matsumoto in Pierre Cardin.

Courtesy of Yoshi Takata / Pierre Pellegri

Hesse has written two previous monographs on Cardin, published in 2010 and 2017, but this time decided to move away from the coffee table book format. The handy tome explores what influenced Cardin’s designs in the 50s and 60s, based on personal memories of the designer and his close circle.

Cardin’s creations were worn by style icons including Jackie Kennedy, Lauren Bacall and Jean Morrow. Together with Paco Rabanne and André Courrèges, he pioneered futuristic creations using materials like PVC that still influence designers today. Before dying in 2020 at the age of 98, Cardin built a global empire thanks to his extensive use of licensing.

The 256-page book will retail for €49.90. Hesse has also written books about Maxim; Cardin’s Palace Bulles residence on the French Riviera; The designer’s now-closed Théâtre des Ambassadors in Paris; The Marquis de Sade, whose castle in the village of Lacoste was acquired by Cardin in 2001, and destinations including Provence and Capri.

A contact sheet from the collection of Roland de Vasal.

Archives of Roland de Vassal / Courtesy of Flamarion

Originally published at Pen 18

Dior Sparks Online Criticism for Traditional Chinese Dressing Design – WWD – Pen 18

Shanghai – Dior has sparked controversy on the Chinese Internet for a medium-length skirt that online viewers claimed resembled traditional Chinese clothing from the Ming dynasty.

Chinese online users criticized the French luxury home for not acknowledging its possible Chinese origins. The hashtag “Dior plagiarism” made it to Weibo’s hot search list on Saturday and garnered 13.7 million clicks on the Chinese social media platform.

However, when the skirt was previewed by WWD in December and shown on the runway in Seoul in April, at the same time it became available in stores, artistic director of women’s show Maria Grazia Chiuri said the purpose of the collection was It is intended to pay tribute to Catherine, Christian Dior’s sister, and the uniform, in particular, was inspired by the school uniform. “Maria Grazia Chiuri became interested in school costumes and, above all, the way students dusted, improvised and updated these clothing tropes, personalizing them with distinctive details, working on punk overtones, of freedom before venturing through the urban landscape in search of spaces,” read the notes of the show.

The $3,800 black pleated skirt sparked controversy among China’s Hanfu enthusiasts, a popular subculture group who enjoy traditional Chinese clothing worn by the people of the Han dynasty. He alleged that the black wool and mohair wraparound skirt was similar to a ma mian skirt, or horse face skirt, which was popular in the Ming dynasty.

The skirt is marked “sold out” on the Hong Kong site and cannot be found on Dior’s mainland China website.

Dyer did not immediately respond to a request for comment.

Some Chinese online users thought Dior’s product descriptor wasn’t misleading, saying the A-line skirt harkens back to the brand’s New Look silhouette.

But despite Dior’s explanation that the inspiration was school uniforms—which have included pleated skirts for decades—Chinese netizens argued that the construction of the one-piece skirt is similar to that of the Ma Mian skirt, which initially had front and rear openings and There are side pleating. Horse riding for women is designed to be easy. The only difference is the length. A conservative Ma Mian skirt is floor-length, while the Dior version sits below the knee.

The op-ed section of state media People’s Daily Online responded with a post requesting Dyer to comment on the subject.

“Without disclosing trade secrets, Dior needs to be as clear as possible about the skirt design process,” the post read. “Industry insiders and copyright experts have joined the discussion. It can be a chance to explore the boundary between plagiarism, design reference, and paying homage to something. ,

This is not the first time that Dior has been embroiled in controversy in China. In November 2021, Chinese netizens accused the brand of showing photographs of famous Chinese fashion photographer Chen Man at an art exhibition in Shanghai. The show featured one of Chen’s earlier works, shot in 2012. The image captured a young Chinese woman wearing traditional Chinese clothing while holding a Lady Dior bag. Chen was accused of perpetuating Western stereotypes of Asian faces, such as slanted eyes.

State-owned media Global Times also criticized Chen’s “Young Pioneer” series for “sharing on child pornography and insulting Young Pioneers,” a series shot in the same period for the youth wing of the Chinese Communist Party.

Chen issued a formal apology a week later, stating that “early artistic ideas were not yet fully formed,” leading to earlier works “lacking thinking”. Dior removed the photo from the exhibition, saying the brand “takes online sentiment very seriously” and “respects the Chinese people.”

For more, see

Bringing China’s Traditional Hanfu to the World Stage

Dior withdraws Valentino’s demand for compensation, say sources

Originally published at Pen 18

Nicomede Men’s Spring 2023 – WWD – Pen 18

British-Filipino designer Nicomede Talavera dubbed her Spring 2023 “a love letter to all the memories she has from growing up in the Philippines.”

“The most vivid memory for me was always the most sublime sunset I would see every evening. It made me think about clothes for a moment between day and night,” the designer added during a preview.

The result was a lineup of sophisticated men’s wear, ideal for summers spent at an exclusive island resort. There was a black and white linen suit for a best friend’s wedding by the sea. For days and nights spent around the infinity pool, there was a sharp white shirt and silk trousers.

Talavera collaborated with fashion designer Sadie Williams, a classmate from Central St. Martins, on a series of colorful hand-painted leather badges, as seen on plain cardigans and crewneck knits, that protect against sun during the day. Shows different situations.

“It’s great to work with people who are not only friends, but who I’ve studied with. We’ve always wanted to work together for so long, and I thought this was the moment to do that. Thrilled to see that she has done it in such a modern and innovative way,” said Talavera.

Leather pieces, especially Talavera’s cocoon-shaped vest, in addition to a polo shirt with abstract prints, will be a must for next season.

Talavera said the colorful, textured leather vests first introduced last season are a tribute to his father, Reynaldo Divina Talavera, who loved leather jackets.

Originally published at Pen 18

England all-rounder Ben Stokes announces retirement from ODI cricket

Originally published at Pen 18

odi: India consolidate third spot in ICC ODI Rankings

India have consolidated their third position in the latest ICC ODI team rankings after the series win over England.

Rishabh Pant’s maiden ODI century and Hardik Pandya’s all-rounder heroics propelled India to an emphatic five-wicket win over England in the third ODI, helping the visitors win the series 2-1.

With a rating of 109 points, India is three rating points ahead of Pakistan (106) in the list.

New Zealand continues to top the table with 128 ratings points, while England are second with 121.

However, the charts may change in the coming weeks as sixth-placed South Africa, currently only seven ratings points behind Pakistan, if they manage to secure a win in their upcoming three-match series against England. So he can reach the fourth position.

India can extend their lead further with a good performance in the three-match series against West Indies starting this week.

Pakistan’s next ODI assignment is against the Netherlands in Rotterdam next month, with Babar Azam’s side playing three 50-over matches over a period of five days.

Originally published at Pen 18