Monday, May 23, 2022

Comme des Garçons, Givenchy and Thom Browne Return to Paris Men’s Week – WWD – Pen 18

Paris – With 76 physical events out of a total of 84, the tentative Paris men’s calendar released on Monday confirms the shows will return in full from June 21 to 26.

But there’s one question that’s top of mind: Who will claim the 8 p.m. closing spot on June 26, which is currently denoted as a “time reserve”? Could it be Vtmnts announced on the January calendar but eventually absent, or the return of Celine, whose latest men’s collection for fall 2022 was unveiled in early March?

Meanwhile, the initial lineup published by French fashion’s governing body, the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode, revealed a number of prominent names returning to Paris Fashion Week, starting with the Comme des Garcons Homme Plus, which debuted at Paris Fashion Week. was absent since. COVID-19 pandemic. Rei Kawakubo’s designs will be shown on June 24th at 5pm.

Other major returnees were Junya Watanabe Man, Thom Browne and Givenchy at 10 a.m. the same day, showing a co-star lineup during the women’s show in March.

Los Angeles-based Mike Amiri is set to debut in Paris on June 23 at 4:30 p.m., after leaving his show originally planned in January.

London-based Craig Green, who moved his presentation to Paris in January 2020 and abandoned digital formats during the pandemic, and Antwerp-based Namcheco will also be showcasing their spring 2023 collection in runway format.

They will be joined by a trio of familiar names. First is Marine Serre, who is switching her classmate shows in the men’s calendar to “display the collection in an outdoor and unexpected location” on June 25 at 8 p.m. and make the spot available on first come to members of the general public. Will make , on a first-serve basis, the brand said.

This season will also see the on-schedule arrival of London-based Kiko Kostadinov, sometimes following an off-calendar show staged pre-pandemic.

Stockholm-based label Lazoschmidl, founded in 2014 by Josef Lazo and Andreas Schmidt, is graduating from the presentation program where it is regularly featured in runway schedules.

New to the presentation calendar, where 37 brands are on display this season, are accessible by French men’s sewing label Fursac, owned by SMCP and designed by Gauthier Borsarello from early 2021; The genderless and sustainable eponymous label of Dupre graduate Jean Freut, and Shanghai-based designer Fang Chen Wang, whose finesse on Chinese heritage has been credited to his collaborations with the likes of Levi’s and Converse, as well as designing outfits sported by his compatriots. have been received. Winter Olympics opening ceremony.

In a surprise twist, Yoji Yamamoto has been cast as a digital-only show, airing June 23 at 5:30 p.m., after putting on a physical runway show during the women’s show in March.

Also sticking to digital productions for now are Head Menor, Jiggy Chen, Sean Suen, Xuun.J, Sankuanj, System Studio and Yoshiokubo.

But that’s not necessarily a deterrent, especially considering that the men’s show from Paris has garnered 208 million views on the Federation’s platform, broadcast partners like YouTube and Tencent, according to figures that would amount to $89.94 million in 2021. The media influence of creates value. by FHCM and Launchmetrics.

The entire Spring 2023 schedule will be available through FHCM’s digital platform, with livestreams and pre-recorded films dropping during each brand’s designated slots.

“Nothing takes the place of physical show, but [the past years] “The amplification and two-dimensional character of Paris Fashion Week is proven by the physical and the digital with a sense of unity, so there is no turning back,” says Pascal Morand, executive president of the Federation.

And men’s calendars continue to see homes big and small, even as co-ed programs are seen as the future of runway productions, showing “the power of menswear design and its creative identity.” The absence of dilution,” the executive said.

Originally published at Pen 18

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