When Georgian-born designer David Koma has a creative block, he returns to the altar of the Madonna to pick me up.
“I see the powerful female artists I listen to,” he said at his design studio in Shoreditch, referring to Spanish singer Rosalia’s album as the inspiration for his racing and motorsport pre-fall 2022 collection.
For the man who dressed some of the red carpet’s most celebrated stars — including Jennifer Lopez, Olivia Rodrigo and Gal Gadot — the party has already started in the house. The brand has “managed to grow steadily” during the pandemic and is now reveling in what it does best: dressing for the occasion.
This season he is witnessing the duel – knitwear vs partywear; Dark versus light, and volcanic islands and snow-capped mountain ranges for the backdrop of their Resort 2023 look book.
The fabric turns out to be a trompe-l’oeil, the stiff lace corset dress delicately soft enough to actually scratch; hand transferred floral print onto disintegrated limb of rubber as the basis for the second naked skin; Layered knitwear in pink cashmere and mohair.
Coma is working in lingerie to discover a softer sensuality as opposed to the face-to-face sexuality that has become part of her brand DNA.
“It’s been a long time that the lingerie aspect was on my mood board,” he said, referring to the stretch lace bodysuits and dresses; Long mesh opera gloves, and draped with loose hoop ruffles.
“I always say, I think no matter what, luxury is like chocolate, it’s always going to be in,” he said.
Coma’s Demi Couture clothing is her bread and butter, but for the second season, she’s fixing the boots behind the success of thigh-high boots with a crystallized garter.
Their brand new subcategory has been 10 years in the making, all shoes now made in Italy.
The new range reaches the pelvic level in shades of Chromatic, Brown Leather and Lizard Green.
There’s no stopping the power of sex for Coma—not even in a stereotypical form that’s modestly overshadowed, but carries its brand of sultry attitude.
Originally published at Pen 18
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