Alexandre Vauthier stepped it up and replaced it this season with a collection that played with proportion on suits and peek-a-boo with dresses.
Last season served as the bones of this collection, and they created Art Deco codes and ’30s shapes with an added ’80s edge. Vauthier developed silhouettes in thicker fabrics such as silk and velvet, while silver sequins or bright slashes of blue came out to counteract any lingering sweetness.
“I wanted something strong and sensual, because the previous collection was a bit romantic,” he said backstage after the show. Vauthier, who worked under Jean Paul Gaultier, made it down to his training. “Sometimes people say to me, ‘You’re obsessed with the ’80s, and maybe it’s because this is my generation, but it’s not about an impact, it’s that you have the power to create your own voice. For all the right techniques and the right timing, you have the right voice.”
He nodded in all his pre-girl boss seriousness to a “working girl” power suit, but cut the sleeves and took the waist down less literally. The “Texas Tuxedo” of acid-washed double denim was given a sequined sheen but felt unnecessary because, as always, her gowns are the real star here.
It was a nod to Grace Jones’ “nightclubbing,” which worked perfectly with disco ball bling. The latest look will speak to celebrity stylists who love their gowns for the red carpet.
Originally published at Pen 18
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