Ralph Rucci didn’t go to Paris for haute couture this season, but he did debut his fall collection.
Despite not hosting a show or presentation there, Ruchi timed the unveiling to get within the spirit of the season. The New York-based designer is expected to return to the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in January.
Noting how the federation needed to make at least 25 designs to participate, Ruchi said he chose because he couldn’t afford to meet that quota and do a show in Paris. As was the case last season, Rookie worked with an illustrator to develop the watercolors of her designs. “People loved it. For customers, it becomes another element of seduction,” Ruchi said, adding that last season’s orders were based primarily on sketches as they were designed versus requests for minor changes.
Referring to the most recent couture show, he said, “We’re back to getting paid to play. Those front rows were full of personalities who were being paid [to attend], You won’t see customers in the front lines… People – and homes – soliciting promotions are part of the pay-for-play story. If you’re showing up with your press agent and being followed by photographers, you’re not paying for clothing,” Ruchi said, adding that many couture customers prefer not to show up so that people don’t know. how much do they cost.
Rookie said, “I like to give things away but I never give things away for publicity — never.”
The fall collection features a sleeveless leather jewel-neck dress embroidered in two patterns, with an over structure over the skirt. An amorphous Duchess satin “cream puff”-type tunic paired with a narrow flared evening skirt with hand-sewn grosgrain ribbon insets over silk organza is another favorite design this season, Rookie said.
Noting how a couture suit without any embroidery from a European home can start at $125,000 in some cases, Rookie said that her prices—which start at $25,000 and more—and are based on hand techniques, embroidery, and fur. Augmentation at the base – are “more appropriate” though the same process as selecting a design, making a toilet, fitting, making a roast garment before the final garment is made. With some designer ready-to-wear suits retailing for as much as $35,000 in specialty stores, “luxury ready-to-wear has become so expensive that haute couture has more meaning to the argument, not just hand-made.” Perfection up to the level of going fabric which is striking but the price structure is understood,” he said.
Once again Rookie worked with fashion illustrator Bill Donovan to create a look book. The photography and production work was handled by 26Five. Donovan’s work will be the focus of an exhibition entitled “The Art of Elegance” from September 13 to 18 at the Gray MCA in London before moving on to Bath from 20 September to 29 October.
Rucci works with Dean Harris for any designs that are related to jewelry such as a dress with a South Seas baroque pearl button on the back. The designer plans to do more paintings on his own to silkscreen some of those designs on clothing for the next season.
After 41 years in fashion and nearing her 65th birthday, Rookie said, “I feel so lucky to be able to do it with the same level of enthusiasm. I still love my meter.”
While acknowledging the ongoing social changes in the world, the war in Ukraine, the lack of rights for women and gay people, and other “apocalyptic problems”, she said, “we don’t have enough resources to defend ourselves or be psychologically prepared.” There’s no way to do it. Before Elsa Peretti died, she said, ‘The only way to deal with this is through beauty and art.'”
In the process of redesigning her art-filled apartment into a three-room couture salon, Rookie said visiting clients would help her experience the textile and its art process. “At one point in my life, I had a 16,000-square-foot office and salon and 67 employees. I don’t anymore, but I’m happier than ever to do what I want, the way I want to. ,
Despite the many headaches affecting designers due to tie-ups, rising fabric prices, and other issues, Rookie insists that couture customers always want sophisticated designs and one that can take the heat. Before this week’s heat wave in New York City, Rookie ordered two inflatable pools from Amazon and installed them on her roof. A small one for his bulldog “Jimmy”, named after Rookie’s mentor James Galanos, and a big one for himself. “On Saturdays I’ll go to the pool and lie there—a fancy couturier in a kid’s blow-up pool,” he said with a laugh.
Originally published at Pen 18
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