It’s almost a trope to say that Viktor & Rolf plays with structure and volume. But this season she took it quite literally by undressing a model center stage and changing up the whole look, with a few strategic twists.
What started out as a typical Viktor & Rolf silhouette, with broad, exaggerated lapels that stretched dramatically far beyond the shoulders, turned into a strict, but soft, fringed look.
He rolled up a clothes rack, rolled up his sleeves and began to shred his clothes. The stiff strings that held the clothes up were removed and they took off its dangerously high platforms, pulled the inner ropes and melted the hard edges.
The same changes were underway backstage and the looks that were already in place were redone with a new relaxed fit. The collars were cocooning, and the jackets had long flowing tails. The theme was change, and both declared the new look softer and a bit more romantic. Models crisscrossed each other on the runway, usually a show no-no but the chaos was controlled and gave the show a carefree vibe.
The models walked in the last look in ballet flats. It was fitting then that the designer himself was wearing vegas and Doc Marten sandals. In the end, women were on par.
The show took place just before the launch of their new “Good Fortune” fragrance.
Originally published at Pen 18
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