Christie’s Auction Spotlights Hubert de Givenchy’s French Touch – WWD – Pen 18

Paris , The sale of Hubert de Givenchy’s estate at Christie’s in Paris next week reflects the exact look of the designer, known as the ambassador for French taste, as the house he founded celebrates its 70th anniversary.

Under the hammer of 1,229 lots, and with a global estimate of around €50 million, it will mark the auction house’s biggest single sale ever at the Paris branch, and as a powerhouse for auctioning single-owner collections. Will strengthen Christie’s reputation. , which includes the historic sale of the collections of Yves Saint Laurent and Pierre Bergé in 2009.

On Wednesday, the House staged previews of more than 900 lots in a special presentation at its headquarters on Avenue Mattignon, which will be open to the public from Friday through June 14.

Because of the draw of the Givenchy name, Christie’s expects hordes of visitors to take in the “Hubert de Givenchy – Collector” exhibit, conceived by set designer Cecil Degos, from two of de Givenchy’s major residences – the Htel d’Or Recreates several rooms. On the Renaissance-style Château du Jonchette near the rue de Grenelle in Paris and the Loire Valley.

The two online sales of small items such as tableware began on Wednesday and will run through June 22 and 23, respectively. The most accessible lot has a malachite box, estimated at 100 euros to 200 euros, and a ’90s office chair with a starting price tag of 50 euros to 80 euros.

The live auction will run from June 14 to 17 in the sales room of the Théâtre Marigny and Christie’s in Paris, which has been temporarily converted into a replica of the Parter Garden in the chateau, with Stagg sculptures originally created for the Couture Salon She was Cristóbal Balenciaga, who gifted them to his fellow designer when he retired.

The star lot features “Woman Walking”, an artist by Alberto Giacometti, a sculpture worth about 30 million euros, and Joan Miró’s “Passage of the Migratory Bird”, which hung in the designer’s bedroom. The painting, which has never been presented at auction before, has a starting price of €2.5 million to €3.5 million.

But primarily, the collection reflects de Givenchy’s passion for the 18th century, with works of art, sculpture and furniture known as “le got française” or “French flavor” – some from fellow designers. including Gabrielle “Coco”. Chanel and Karl Lagerfeld.

It was an emotional occasion for Charles Cater, deputy chairman of Christie’s International, who worked with De Givenchy on several subsequent projects until the first sale of items from his collection at Christie’s in 1993 and the designer’s death in 2018.

“The 1993 sale was an extraordinary experience for me,” Cater recalled. “It changed my work life forever, but I think it also changed the way we sell our collections. And in fact, someone once told me that sales in ’93 set the pattern for collection sales for the next 20, 30 years.

De Givenchy was named President of Christie’s France’s Supervisory Board and a member of its International Board in 1997 and was involved in a number of exhibitions and sales, most recently, the 2017 auction of a collection of his works by Diego Giacometti.

Collecting aristocratic roots and bearing tall was a lifestyle for the designer and his partner, Philippe Venet, whose impeccable taste extended to every aspect of their home—including the garden table.

“It must be the only table that had a denim cover made by Givenchy because there were a lot of birds on top and it made them a little angry that they kept making a mess. So they made Maison de Couture a denim cover for it to take off and then.” Washable,” Cater recalled.

Cater said what linked to de Givenchy’s clothing, such as the famous black dress Audrey Hepburn wore at “Breakfast at Tiffany’s” and her furniture collection was a love of structure and a deep respect for craftsmanship.

“The chairs, it’s sculpture, it’s shape and profile,” he said as he walked through the display. “Obviously, a lot of her aesthetic is the line.”

He pointed to an 18th-century mechanical cylinder bur, by David Roentgen, which contained secret drawers and elements that are released when a key is turned. “Like a couture dress, there’s a huge amount of ingenuity in making it do what it does,” he remarked. “And I think that’s what he liked in furniture.”

De Givenchy was heavily influenced by American garden designer and socialite Bunny Mellon, who had her own bedroom at the Château du Jonchet, which has been remodeled for the Presale exhibition.

“They obviously made wonderful clothes for her, but at the same time, they were interested in interiors, collecting and having a lot of fun looking at things together, and I think she was always interested in simplicity and everything. She was very impressive at striking a balance with. She had, but I think she insisted on it,” Cater said.

Her bedroom’s blue-and-white decor was an anomaly for De Givenchy, favoring a palette of green, gold, white, and black. The first floor of Christie’s exhibition includes a replica of the charming Green Velvet Room in her Paris apartment. “He said, ‘Tujours le vert, tujours le vert, Charlie,'” Cater recalled with a smile.

De Givenchy would often reupholster the chairs to make them to his liking. “He was clearly, in his metre, incredibly interested in fabrics and materials, and he would sometimes use old materials or often plain materials,” Cater said.

In contrast, de Givenchy updated the Louis XVI Bergre chair with a textile designed by artist Georges Braque, and Givenchy glove makers embroidered elaborate leather and suede upholstery for a series of Claude Sene chairs dating from the 18th century. Had it.

He was sensitive to the origins of pieces such as one of his first major purchases, an uproar created by King Louis XIV’s furniture maker André-Charles Boulle, an exhibition running concurrently at the Kugel Gallery in Paris. is the centerpiece of. Thursday to June 15.

First owned by Chanel friends José-Maria and Misia Sert, the armoire stood in their living room with a painting by Mark Rothko, reflecting his early knack for mixing eras.

From Chanel, who invited her regularly to dinner, she bought a Regens gilt-oak console table, from circa 1710 to 1720, and from Lagerfeld, a pair of Louis XVI-era fireplace accessories—both Estimates ranged from 60,000 euros to 100,000 euros. ,

“The interesting thing about the collection is that there is such a vast range, because it is his eye all the way from the grand to the ordinary,” said Cater.

He believes the discerning eye is what keeps interiors from feeling oppressive, despite the staggering amount of items they contain, including 440 examples of seat furniture alone.

“There was an incredible harmony and peace in the rooms because they had a tremendously strong structure. And then you can layer, because people say, ‘Well, with so many things in these rooms, how can you say they’re very Are you calm?’ But really, really, they were, and I think that’s because there was an underpinning,” Cater explained.

What sets the collection apart from estate sales by other designers such as Saint Laurent and Lagerfeld is that Givenchy bought pieces specifically for their homes.

“He understood how to use furniture, but he didn’t just buy things for them, so it’s different,” Cater said. “He was focusing more on the rooms he had and how to make them look as wonderful as possible.”

Kugel Gallery co-owner Alexis Kugel said he and his brother Nicolas expressed their gratitude to the long-standing client de Givenchy, who designed the gallery’s stand for the Biennale des Antiquares in 1994, which The famous Boule was centered around Armoire. Which he sold them two years ago.

“He taught us a certain restraint in terms of presentation, a taste for symmetry. They were great lessons and for the next 20 years, he remained a very regular customer, who liked to constantly improve his collection,” Kugel remembered.

The “Homage Hubert de Givenchy, Collecteur” exhibition offers members of the public a rare opportunity to enter the grand Kugel gallery on the banks of the River Seine, which spans more than 10,765 square feet over three floors.

“For us, the most important thing is to provide people with a real-life portrayal of what you might call ‘le grand goit francais’. It’s hard to explain, but it’s a mix of luxury without pretentiousness, perfection in proportion and There is design intelligence, and you find it in each and every one of these pieces of furniture,” Kugel explained.

“We’re Relying Strongly on Hubert De Givenchy Sales” [at Christie’s] To help a new generation that may have been a little forgotten 18th-century French, perhaps tired of the minimalism of white loft, to rediscover the infinite joy of being surrounded by beautiful objects,” he said .

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Documentary depicts the grand life of Hubert de Givenchy

Originally published at Pen 18

For Resort 2023, Giambattista Valli Is in a Garden Party Mood – WWD – Pen 18

Historic, romantic and quite formal, Paris is a city that draws people in. This certainly seeped into Rome-born Giambattista Valli, whose collections have always had a strong French accent and attitude.

Visiting the lavish salon in her Paris showroom, where her resort, pre-spring and beach collections are displayed, the designer broke up a silver mule with a bow the color of rose-flavored macaroons and wore it to Marie Described as an Antoinette sort of thing. Wear it when she rolls out of bed—or for that matter, director Sofia Coppola, who famously made a film about the last Queen of France in lush, ladylike colors and a lot of fuss.

Mostly in white, pink, and green, Valli’s clothing took its cues from French gardens: green canning patterned A-line skirts, and creeping embroidered vines over bib-front tuxedo shirts, tweed jackets, and snug knits.

He called the collection “en plein air”, which is the French word for outside. “We are breathing again – open space, open skies, nature, garden parties, happy times,” he said, referring to the easing of the coronavirus pandemic in Europe. “Everything is about lightness.”

In fact, pastel colors, crisp or gossamer dresses, and fluid silhouettes telegraph a fresh and summery brand of feminine, Parisian chic: a poplin shirtdress in lace on one side, or a can of tulle sprouting over the neck of a swimsuit. Foam, which can also be worn as a top. There were touches of interspersed exotica; A Mandarin collar here, a draped, saffron-coloured dress there.

“The customer is looking for things that make you feel beautiful,” Valli said. “I like to give the end customer the freedom to interpret the collection how he wants.”

Add Valli to the list of designers looking to up their shoe game. Their resort and pre-spring offerings include flat sandals with bejeweled straps that were displayed in glass cabinetry, like art objects, or more earthy, cork-soled styles with sprouting large gold studs.

Originally published at Pen 18

Unseen Letters Reveal YSL’s Friendship With Hubert de Givenchy – WWD – Pen 18

Paris , Yves Saint Laurent was famous for speaking ill of his competitors, but there was one colleague who found grace in his eyes: Hubert de Givenchy.

Saint Laurent announced his admiration for the couturier publicly in a 1991 interview, and privately in a series of letters in which he thanked the designer for his support and professed his deep respect for his oeuvre. . Her successors shared correspondence with WWD with the sale of de Givenchy’s collection of art and furniture at Christie’s in Paris the following week.

“There are very few creators of genius. To be precise, I’d say there have been only two — Givenchy and I. The rest, the others, that’s the mob, the horror… Zero,” WWD wrote in a 1991 article titled “St. Laurent’s Biting Words”, quoting him. ,

The late couturier reportedly made the comment in an interview with Vanessa van Zuylen in her then-new magazine L’Insense. “Ever since Chanel and Balenciaga faced off, there’s nothing but Givenchy and me,” Saint Laurent is quoted as saying.

While the friendship is not well documented, there are photographs of Saint Laurent at the opening of the “Givenchy: 40 Years of Creation” exhibition at the Palais Galliera in Paris in 1991, and he was among the designers who designed de Givenchy. Last attended Haute. Couture show with Valentino, Christian Lacroix, Kenzo and Oscar de la Renta in 1995.

In contrast, de Givenchy was present for Saint Laurent’s farewell event at the Pompidou Center in 2002.

“Your letter and your presence on my show have touched me more deeply than words. I am in a state of shock and I feel unable to write the letter for which I am indebted to you and which you deserve. In any case, please know that I thank you from the bottom of my heart and I think of you with friendship and gratitude,” Saint Laurent wrote a few days later.

Although De Givenchy’s side of the correspondence is not available, it is clear that the two men were in regular contact. Saint Laurent thanked him several times for sending him flowers, and described him as a lighthouse in an industry that was no longer familiar.

“Since my youth, you have never made me stop dreaming. Of course I am deeply saddened to close my couture house, but it was no longer possible for me to continue working in a strange world,” he wrote in a letter dated December 17.

The careers of the two men were quickly intertwined. In 1953, Saint Laurent entered the International Wool Secretariat’s fashion design competition when he was just 16 years old, and was awarded the third prize by a jury that included Christian Dior and de Givenchy.

She applied again the following year, this time winning both first and third prizes in the dress category out of 6,000 unnamed entries. De Givenchy sat on the jury panel again, and the design that earned first prize, a black crepe cocktail dress, was created in his atelier.

After the death of the founder, Saint Laurent later rose to prominence when he was named artistic director of the house of Dior at the age of 21.

Both he and De Givenchy were among the pioneers of luxury ready-to-wear. De Givenchy introduced his line called “Givenchy University” in 1954, while Saint Laurent was the first luxury designer to open an RTW boutique, “Saint Laurent Rive Gouache,” in 1966.

While Saint Laurent developed a lifelong relationship with Catherine Deneuve, de Givenchy was best known for dressing another screen star, Audrey Hepburn. And the two amassed an impressive collection of works of art, sculpture and furniture that made them one of the leading tastemakers of their time.

In the early 70s, Saint Laurent entered into a long-running feud with Karl Lagerfeld, which was often played out in the press. In contrast, her friendship with De Givenchy was so private, it is rarely mentioned in biography, and even little known to fashion historians.

Saint Laurent wrote on January 25, 1996, “I feel so alone in this profession now, and I realize how much I miss you.”

“I was deeply moved by the words you used to define my work. Considering how corrupt the profession has become, it takes a lot of courage to keep doing couture,” said Saint Laurent 8 September , followed 1997.

Although it is not known how his correspondent reacted, the letters provide a sense of Saint Laurent’s alienation and de Givenchy’s trademark discretion.

See all:

Hubert de Givenchy’s 91. have died in

A Look Back: Givenchy on the Changing World of Fashion

Documentary depicts the grand life of Hubert de Givenchy

Originally published at Pen 18

Peter Dundas Looks to Rihanna, Cardi B and More for Resort 2023 – WWD – Pen 18

Of any designer working today, Peter Dundas can communicate the most useful with the red carpet.

The Belgian, with creative directors in Roberto Cavalli and Emilio Pucci under her belt, launched her namesake label in 2017 via Beyoncé’s Grammys wardrobe, and hasn’t taken off since. She most recently created the yellow jumpsuit worn by HER at this year’s awards, and dressed Cardi B, Joan Smalls and Natasha Pauly at Cannes, with versions of her look now on Revolve through its partnership with e-commerce are purchasable.

Relocating to Los Angeles, he now spends almost 50 percent of his time grooming celebrities.

“It drives business. I also always try to have a creative relationship between the two. I do a lot of celebrity dressing that is straight from the collection, or if it’s something on the red carpet, it inspires me. Nearby is a dress called Nirvana, whose open back wraps around, at least 10 celebrities have worn it which makes it a significant part of the collection,” he said, instead resuming that work. Everything in keeping with our philosophy of working.

“A lot of my inspiration comes from images of celebrities and people in the music business, so my aesthetic already connects to their work. I like clothes that look more sexy.”

He said for Resort 2023, taking inspiration from the supermodel era of the ’90s and casting his friend Heidi Klum as his look book muse.

Soaring heels in front of the L.A. skyline, Klum debuts Dundas’ first swimwear, featuring sultry cutouts, wrap, and strap details, harking back to images by Helmut Newton.

Several versions of the famous front and side lacing minidress worn by a pregnant Rihanna in Barbados over Easter weekend made it into the collection — in hot pink, and as a long black gown, to name two.

The designer said they fit very differently on Klum, who has already worn a version of the dress in public, and that’s it. “I pride myself on making women feel great regardless of their size or age. I dress royals in the ’80s, I model and I dress Lizzo; anyone with clothes It’s wonderful to feel confident and comfortable.”

jersey jumpsuit with cutout crisscross bra top, like the one recently worn by Cardi B, in a “jungle camo” bandeau top and leggings and two knockout embellished minidresses, lacquered lace side panels, or in crushed velvet with ombre effect perspex mirrors, whose were on offer. The world is a stage.

For a more subtle, minimalist dandas, an emerald green kaftan-jumpsuit, black jersey halter gown with side cutouts and thigh-high slits, and a hot pink tuxedo jacket looked good. “I really start each collection with a suit; This is how I was brought up in fashion. My first job was with Jean Paul Gaultier and they cut jackets like nobody else, so I still have that discipline. ,

Dundas is dedicated to America for now, continuing to grow its high-end business as well as low-priced collections with Revolve.

“Their customer base is similar to ours but smaller and with a smaller pocketbook. It’s more accessible but the quality is amazing, and I have high standards,” he said of the apparel. “They also work a lot with analytics, so they know their customers well.”

Originally published at Pen 18

Haney Returns With New California Glamour and an Ode to Juicy Couture – WWD – Pen 18

Los Angeles-based designer and social maven Mary Alice Haney is relaunching her line following a COVID-19 pause.

The industry veteran, who has worked as a magazine editor for Allure, Marie Claire and GQ, a stylist for A-listers like Blake Lively and Sarah Jessica Parker, and a TV host, debuted a luxury eveningwear outfit in 2013. Entered the business with the collection. With gowns inspired by her famous clients.

Net-a-Porter was the first retailer to pick it up, followed by Neiman Marcus, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, Shopbop, Fred’s and many others.

“Honey is known for party dresses and red carpets and when the pandemic hit, all my orders stopped, the only thing I could do was close the company,” she said.

But she couldn’t shake her love of design, and spent 10 years building the brand. So, she spent lockdown talking about how she, her clientele, and her idea of ​​sexy, California glamor have changed.

“We’re not out, we’re not wearing heels,” said Haney, a one-time regular on the charity ball circuit. “We still want to live our lives and feel good but we want to feel comfortable.”

For inspiration, she looked back at what she was wearing when she first moved from New York to L.A. — Juicy Couture — and designed a velor capsule collection in that spirit. Except that ’70s-style, zip-front, belted white jumpsuit, ’90s-nostalgic black bustier minidress with side cutouts, cropped cardigans, bra tops, and briefs are so sexy, they don’t even look like velor .

The main collection is the Body Con – ruched minidress with peeping out bra, crystal edge cutouts, open back or tied sash with folded straps, bustier and flared trousers, and a white blazer dress – and it all with heels Sori or barefoot on the sand will be seen at home.

The collection, which drops October 1, is being produced at a factory in New York used by Cushnie et Ochs and Proenza Schouler, and is priced from $350 to $1,100 for the advanced contemporary market, and features exclusive ornate pieces. Is for. ,

In addition to wholesale and her own e-commerce, she is looking at new channels of distribution, including the costume designing she does through an upcoming TV show.

“As a small brand, you can’t compete with LVMH’s budget, but what can we do that’s spooky and innovative? That’s the thing about living in LA, we have some of the biggest scenes in the world.” brains have access, how can we turn this into a new way consumers see clothes?”

Originally published at Pen 18

Details, Locations and More – WWD – Pen 18

BTS is celebrating the release of their 10th studio album called “Proof”, hosted by two pop-up shops across the US

The popular K-pop group is hosting “Proof” pop-up shops in New York City and Los Angeles starting Friday to celebrate their upcoming album. The Shops has been described as “a vibrant thematic compilation celebration of BTS’s historic rise and continued success on the global stage”.

BTS’s “Proof” pop-up stores give fans an immersive experience to celebrate the album, with each location offering exclusive merchandise as well as past merchandise from previous albums and tours.

The seven-member group, consisting of RM, Jin, Suga, J-Hope, Jimin, V and Jungkook, is arguably the largest K-pop group in the world. The group has been in the music industry for over a decade, releasing their debut album in 2013. BTS has received two Grammy nominations and was named Artist of the Year at the 2021 American Music Awards.

BTS has made as much of an impact in fashion as it has in music. In April 2021, BTS was named a Louis Vuitton brand ambassador and has helped the design house drive an online audience for its fashion shows. The group regularly coordinates Louis Vuitton for many of their appearances, including the 2020 Grammy Awards. BTS’s Grammy look later went up for auction at the MusiCares charity Relief Auction organized by Julianne’s Auctions, where the suits sold for $160,000.

Fans are able to reserve tickets ahead of time for expedited access to the pop-up, but they can also make walk-in visits. The New York City Pop-Up is located at 104 Charlton Street and the Los Angeles Pop-Up is located at 700 N. Fairfax Avenue. Both stores open on Fridays and are open daily from noon to 7 pm.

Read more here:

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Originally published at Pen 18

Details, Photos, Prices, What to Know – WWD – Pen 18

The much-anticipated Adidas x Gucci collaboration is finally here.

After debuting at Gucci’s Fall 2022 ready-to-wear runway show in February, the design house has released its Adidas x Gucci collection for purchase.

The collection includes ready-to-wear pieces for women and men, and also offers footwear, accessories, jewelry and lifestyle pieces. The collaboration combines Adidas and Gucci logos and popular motifs, namely the three-strip design of Adidas and its signature tracksuit.

The Adidas x Gucci collaboration is available on the design house’s website, stores and a range of pop-up shops in Los Angeles, New York, Miami, Chicago, Houston and other cities.

Here, WWD rounds up everything there is to know about the adidas x Gucci collaboration. Read on for more.

When did the adidas x gucci collection come out?

Gucci unveiled the Adidas x Gucci collection, its fall 2022 ready-to-wear collection, during its “Exclusive Gucci” runway show in February. The fashion show featured a star-studded front row with Rihanna, A$AP Rocky, Jared Leto, Serena Williams, Daisy Edgar-Jones and many others.

What does the Adidas x Gucci collection look like?

The Adidas x Gucci collection offers women’s and men’s pieces, including apparel, footwear, accessories, jewelry and lifestyle pieces. The collection fuses the design ethos of both brands, mixing the Gucci and Adidas logos and incorporating many of the sports brand’s signature elements, such as its three stripes and famous tracksuit. Gucci also incorporated its own famous red and green designs.

The collection oozes 70s style, with retro pieces such as flared pants, bowling shirts, knitted vests and other pieces designed with geometric prints. The shoes include the Adidas Gazelle sneaker in suede and leather, and new versions of Gucci’s Horsebite loafers.

For handbags, the collection offers the Gucci Horacebit 1955 cross-body bag and duffel bag in varying sizes.

What does the collection’s campaign look like?

A look from the Adidas x Gucci collection.
Courtesy of Gucci

Creative director Alessandro Michele took a ’70s-inspired approach for the campaign, which was photographed by Carlijn Jacobs.

“Alessandro Michele envisions a campaign that draws inspiration directly from the 1979 Adidas catalog,” the collection’s press release said. “To animate the concept, a gridded template displays a variety of moving imagery captured by Carlijn Jacobs. Against a brightly colored background, models stretch, run or dance, as if ‘when your thoughts become reality, then you understand what magic is.'”

When will the collection be available?

The Adidas x Gucci collection is available starting June 7.

How Can I Buy Pieces From the Adidas x Gucci Collection?

The collaboration is available for purchase at Gucci stores, on its website, and on the adidas Confirmed app.

Additionally, Gucci is hosting a number of pop-up shops dedicated to the collection starting Tuesday. The pop-ups are located at Melrose Place in Los Angeles and South Coast Plaza in Costa Mesa, California. More pop-up stores would later open on Fifth Avenue, Wooster Street and East Hampton in New York; on Michigan Avenue in Chicago; at Houston’s Galleria; at Lenox Mall in Atlanta; at Miami’s Aventura Mall; and at the Holt Renfrew Yorkdale store in Toronto.

What is the price range of Adidas x Gucci Collection?

Collections range in price from $235 for a pair of gym socks to $4,200 for a large monogram duffle bag.

Read more here:

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Originally published at Pen 18