From featherweight trousers that flutter in the wind to Pegasus’ chiffon feathers mounted on the back of a shiny silk jacket, the collection had a lightness, and a polish, that could stand shoulder to shoulder with any biggie. luxury brands.
Mike Amiri dreams big, and always has. For this collection, he wanted to channel his own ’90s skater youth, and “the age when you thought anything was possible.” That is why he chose Pegasus, the mythical winged horse, for the jacket. “It represents the impossible,” he said.
While he may be a dreamer, Amiri also knows how to execute. He describes his Los Angeles headquarters as “half atelier, half artist workshop” and draws much inspiration from the collection of classic Americana that he keeps next door. He describes vintage clothing and memorabilia as “shaped by the hands of the times”.
This beautiful spring outing marked Amiri’s return to Paris, and here its first runway show took place. It unfolded under the white hot sun of France’s main botanical garden, the Jardin des Plantes, where guests included Russell Westbrook and Greg Laurent, who said they were proud to support their fellow American designer and friend.
“Mike’s shows keep getting better and better every year,” said Westbrook, who is doing double time in Paris, showing and selling his own brand of Honor the Gift. “For me, the creative side is the best,” he said.
Amiri performed some of the greatest American games with a European sensibility. (In 2019, they received a minority investment from Renzo Rosso’s OTB.) The suits were feathered, and the jackets were so soft and deconstructed that they could be tucked directly into the waistband of trousers.
The trousers themselves were convertible, with buttons running upwards that could be undone “to fit over sneakers,” Amiri said.
The lightweight wool pinstripe suit had a subtle, streaky, sun-bleached effect, which the designer said the team worked on for months to get the mark just right.
Emirati craftsmen also spread out their stuff, layering crinkled chiffon several times to create a 3D effect on Pegasus’ wings, which at times fluttered so slightly that models walked down huge runways.
The artisans also pulled seven different varsity jackets from Amiri’s collection to piece together a new design, and layered the perforated leather to the point where it resembled the nylon mesh on the shirt. They tie-dye the gossamer sweater, embedding the Amiri logo to the point where it can barely be seen. Everyone in the rich is dreaming big.
Originally published at Pen 18