Erdem Moralioglu took Constance Spree, the teacher, author and gardening guru who made flower arrangements for Queen Elizabeth’s coronation, as his collection for a collection that featured saturated colors and foliage reminiscent of 18th-century Dutch painters. was alive with the pattern of.
Huge floral embroidery bloomed in a sharply tailored coat and vivid, pea-green skirt, while oversized, dramatic bow looks included a kiwi-toned evening gown and a fuchsia pencil skirt with a black flower print.
The grandeur and homage to the natural world also came in the form of colorful prints inspired by Dutch artists’ luscious, sensual paintings.
Moralioglu worked those petals and vines on the silhouette, which included a one-shoulder midi dress adorned with a dramatic black bow; a frayed, linen trench with a frayed hem; and a prime white broody Anglesey dress with balloon sleeves.
There was also a big shot of orange here—tangerine florals on breezy midi dresses and a long drink of gowns with straps and dull puff sleeves.
No matter how fancy or dramatic these silhouettes were, they were styled with flat, black, lace-up shoes to channel the glamor and ground-ness of Spree herself.
The designer said he envisioned Spree’s double life, designing for the coronation and spending time digging up dirt and feeding her plants and flowers. “In my mind, half of this collection is real, the other half is dreamlike – almost decadent.”
He added that it “indicates a vulgar personality with a wild side lingering beneath the surface.”
Even her mohair sweater had an abstract floral shade effect, said the designer, “as if in a walled garden, under dense greenery, sheltered from direct sunlight.”
The collection also had an edge of the ’50s, a lineup of fit-and-flare dresses, understated tweed suits with pencil skirts, and fullers, which she paired with a snappy white shirt.
Originally published at Pen 18
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