Luca Magliano should consider moving his fashion show from Milan Fashion Week to the Cannes Film Festival. Directors like Jim Jarmusch or Chloe Zhao might just as well combine the fascinating storytelling with the designer’s downbeat chic to the compelling story.
Some of the men walking the catwalk with their raised Perspex looked as though they had gotten out of the shower to answer the door, pulled up an all-nighter or maybe even slept on a park bench. One fellow, eyes down, was walking in a large gray T-shirt with an “I” and a broken heart symbol.
Press notes refer to recycled scarves and “shirts made from old shirts”, which explains the old, out-of-date quality for many garments. Yet it was hard to tell whether was repurchased and recycled, or just to look old, and beaten.
The fashion pack passed rusty wheelbarrows and heaps of weeds on their way into the show venue, an abandoned electrical substation with broken windows and decades of dust in the corners.
But while the display had a gloomy, dystopian air, make no mistake that Magliano has the definite hand stitching and terrific color sense, sliding cocoa brown together with dusty purple, or olive with fiery red. Here’s a collection that calls for a re-watch.
There’s a new grunge king in Milan, and possibly a budding costume designer.
Originally published at Pen 18
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