Florence – Despite the geopolitical challenges, the exhibitors at the textile fair Pitti Philti showed resilience and drive.
Pitti Filti returned to Fortezza da Basso, running from 29 June to 1 July. After being held at Leopolda station from January 2020 114 ExhibitorsOf which 18 came from the United Kingdom, Japan, Turkey, Romania, Peru, China, Hong Kong, Ireland, South Africa and New Zealand.
While the return to a physical and mask-free three-day trade show was certainly a relief, the spinners expressed an overall sense of busyness inspired by the Russian invasion of Ukraine, which has driven up prices of energy, gas and raw materials significantly, and Shipping has become difficult.
Pitti Filti, 2022 Edition
Courtesy Image / Pitti Imagine
“With the war, energy costs and production costs have increased, but with the recent closure of important cities in China – all of this created additional complexity,” commented Cristiana Cariagi, b.Ord member and sustainability director of Kariagi, a family-owned yarn factory located in Cagli. Carriage was obliged to increase its prices in view of inflation, which stood at the rate in May 8.6 percent, its highest level since 1981.
,We have revised the prices to help our customers, usually our price list lasts for six or eight months, now we update it every three months,” said Kariyagi. Despite the adversity, the company Is It is estimated that the revenue for 2022 will increase by 9 percent.
With a hint of optimism and confidence in the future, Kariagi proposes a massive drop in the 2023 collection :fLuffy bouquets and rich thick wool, wavy surfaces, and fuzzy tweed were the main characters. New features of the collection included Dizzy Worsted yarn made from 75 percent silk and 25 percent cashmere and Fool’s Worsted yarn made from 49 percent cashmere, 35 percent silk and 16 percent polyamide.
Dizzy Worsted yarn made from 75 percent silk and 25 percent cashmere from the Kariyagi 2023 Fall Collection.
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Sustainable production is one of the pillars of Kariagi, which has recently renovated Launched an app to facilitate factories and customers to search available yarn to upgrade the energy systems and machines to be used.
The same is the case with Botto Giuseppe, the historic yarn company founded in 1866. In 2021, Botto Giuseppe reduced CO2 emissions by 60 percent, as a direct result of investments made over the past 10 years. In addition, tThat fall 2023 collection is based on wool, cashmere and silk; Fibers that come from animals and nature are thus biodegradable and recyclable. “We have created a traceability of the fibers and our cashmere has material claim standards and sustainable fiber alliance certification, while the silk we produce is cruelty free.”
Slow yarn from Botto Giuseppe’s Fall 2023 collection.
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Speaking about the effects of the war in Ukraine, Silvio Botto, Chief Executive Officer of the storied company, said: “The supply problem was already present before the war as the cost of raw materials has risen sharply in the last year, certainly increasing the level of engagement in the war.
In 2021, Boto Giuseppe had a turnover of EUR 51 million and the CEO argued that, “2021 has already been a better year than 2020, with a small rebound. [In] By 2022 we are back well above 2019 values.”
Consinee Group was the first Chinese spinner company in this edition of Pitti Filti and is the largest supplier of cashmere in China.
Established in 1999 and after over 20 years of continuous investment in leading-edge technologies, Consinee Group prides itself on its forward-looking approach to modern yarn. Vinco Rosa, brand manager for the US and Canada markets, said, “Sustainability is and will always be the focus for us.”
In addition to being Mongolian farmers’ first choice for high-quality cashmere, Consinee is the only textile company in China to have robot-managed production. “In this way, we are able to produce 24/7, 365 days per year. Eighty percent of our energy is solar and we have also opened a dyeing factory where we recycle 80 percent of the water and recycle it continuously. use,” said Rosa.
Since its production is based in China, the company has been hit not only by the war but also by the recent lockdowns in major Chinese cities. Rosa said “SoShipping cost has increased 10 times. We had supply chain and delivery issues as Shanghai was closed for two months, so getting shipments from China was a challenge. However, the consignee last year Opened its market to Serbian and Bulgarian customers.
The geopolitical instability and the lockdown did not completely spoil the mood. For example, Federico Gualtieri, Vice President of Filapucci, argued that, “This year we are up 30 percent compared to last year,” and added, “We sell very little in Ukraine and Russia and we do not have direct customers.”
Inside the Filpucci stand, Gualtieri presents a diverse collection. “CArred wool is the focus of our 2023 Winter Collection. This year, we have also added recycled alpaca and recycled mohair, and as raw material prices have increased, we have decided to use nylon instead of acrylic, and have established ourselves in a higher market.
Carded wool yarn from Filpucci’s 2023 Fall Collection.
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On the other hand, yarn made from Manifatura Cesia, which was recently purchased by Ethica Global Investments, is produced. Polypropylene, a special yarn that doesn’t absorb sweat and is odorless, a super wash and high-tech wool and recycled polyamide and durable wool.
Since the pandemic, many people have started working from home, hence increasing the demand for more comfortable and casual clothing and loungewear products. That’s why for this season, Sessia has decided to propose natural shades in beige, light gray and milky white that go well with supersoft cashmere. In fact, the trend was Sherwool blended with thin and dry wool, bouffant, mohair and silk, royal alpaca, baby alpaca, organic cotton and cashmere brushed silk.
Manifattura Sesia, fall 2023 yarn.
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Relaxed and cozier yarns were also seen in the Tolegno 1900 collection, which offered super-stretchy offerings such as fabrics in wool or wool and viscose, or wool and Tencel-Lyocel blends and with more than 25 percent elasticity, ideal for Ideal for manufacturing of technical and envelope fabrics.
Originally published at Pen 18
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