Steven Passaro wants to talk about emotions, and how they are not only obsolete, well, emotions but complex processes that leave a visible mark on the body. The starting point of the spring collection was “The Body Keeps the Score”, in which psychiatrist Bessel van der Koel explains the physical effects of psychological trauma.
To make his point, the designer used colors associated with each emotion, such as red for anger, yellow for joy or blue for sadness, as the color palette of the season.
But fear not looking like an extra from Disney’s “Inside Out,” where emotions become animated characters living their best lives in a child’s brain. Passaro kept the colors refined and delivered them with a light hand, such as with a contrast stitch or dip dye effect.
The designer’s penchant for pleats and fake layering played well with her metaphors for the unfolding of emotion. Inner upholstery took the shape of folds in the jersey top, while intricate sentiment became a two-tone juxtaposition of geometric lace.
Elsewhere, the outline of a tank top over a crisp shirt embodied the idea of looking one way and feeling another. Occasional voluminous ruffles gave the appearance of raised hackles—or radiating joy, depending on who you asked. It was a rare flourish that played well with a well-cut but formal blazer and made denim smart.
These are especially tuned to the trompe l’oeil for their knack and experience of sewing, hands appropriate and in step with the moment.
Originally published at Pen 18
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