Resort 2023 is Roland Mouret’s first collection under new ownership, Han Chong’s SP Collection.
While it didn’t signify a new direction for the brand—Mouret’s signature curves were still in place—it was more focused, and far more versatile, than in the past.
“It’s a crowded market and we put a lot of effort into every piece,” Chong said during an exclusive interview with Mouret earlier this year.
“Han was adamant that I open the necklines – ‘Give me more necklines,'” Mouret recalled Chong saying. Hence the power-shoulder orange gown with a deep V-neck, and a turquoise off-shoulder midi dress.
“He likes things to be practical and pure without being boring and plain,” Mouret said, adding that the collection has “more movement and draping — and less zippers. It’s like I ‘control’ the outfit less. ‘ Silhouettes are more supple, and I’m trying to destroy this idea of an ‘office dress’.
“These outfits have to be a woman’s best friend, to go from day to night, and to be relevant for now,” Mouret said.
Fabrics include stretch viscose, wool crepe, jersey, cashmere and wool, with embellishments including sequins and diamonds. There was definitely more flesh on the show, but the curvy silhouette and punchy colors were unmistakably Mouret.
To create and sculpt the figure, Mouret created knits from a blend of chenille and power mesh, and created dresses with cutout details, sheer mesh panels, inner corsets, and boning at the waist.
There was great tailoring in the mix, including a black tuxedo coat, while a viscose wedding gown could easily be pulled out of a suitcase, in keeping with the collection’s easy, versatile approach.
Originally published at Pen 18
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