A relaxed suit silhouette, shown mostly without a shirt, featuring a soft shoulder build and worn with spacious, flowy, pleated pants, emerged as the major sewing trend for the spring season.
Mr. Armani, the originator of this soft look, delivered a powerful Giorgio Armani collection, which is filled with lightly tailored suits for the summer season. With white, beige and black came the spectacular sartorial display and some were so lightly made they resembled pajamas. Backstage after the show, Armani said he wanted to reinvent the “classic piece”. mission accomplished.
Young designer Hed Menor presented the gender-fluid collection that featured a new and youthful take on the traditional suit. This new sartorial choice complemented his game of proportion with other sports pieces and outerwear choices. “Ratio is about the removal of class, gender, status, whatever,” said Mener backstage, who maintained that it isn’t really about being feminine or masculine. His inclusive effort resulted in one of the most directional suits of the season.
American designer Mike Amiri’s spring collection guaranteed a thumbs-up: a confident new look at American classics, artistic patchwork designs and some of the lightest suit creations of the spring 2023 season. Double-breasted blazers were so featherlight that they could be tucked directly into the waistband of trousers. Some of the pants themselves were convertible, with buttons running upwards, which could be undone “to fit over sneakers,” Amiri said backstage, adding to the modern sartorial feel of the effort.
“What do men need today? And how can we develop sewing?” Ermenegildo Zegna creative director Alessandro Sartori surprised at a preview walk-through with WWD ahead of the show. The result was a series of super light suit shapes in dusty colors, including soft pinks and light oranges, with active There were traces of clothing and workwear details. Other sartorial pieces included kimono-cut jackets, ethereal coats and double-breasted blazers, some with shirt-collar details instead of lapels. Sartori’s quest for travel has been one of experimentation and innovation. and its effect is clear.
Other trend highlights include: holiday inspired summer suits in gelato tones at Herms; Kim Jones’ new take on her signature side-button Tellur Oblique, a softly constructed suit jacket with a layered lapel that resembles a pair of buttoned sleeves, and an ultra-thin cotton suit in Officine General. There is effortless elegance. All offered a modern take on the traditional staple of men.
Originally published at Pen 18